Xian's Fashion Odyssey: From Horseback Archery to Celestial Dance
西安:从胡服骑射到霓裳羽衣
历史背景
作为古丝绸之路的东方起点,西安自古以来就是东西方时装的交汇处。唐代长安(西安)见证了「胡服骑射」,波斯纹样与汉唐织锦相互融合,奠定兼收并蓄美学基础。文化交流创造了独特环境,外来工艺与本地传统共存。如今回民街的银器作坊和永兴坊的扎染工坊,仍可见粟特(Sogdian)工匠技艺与关中民俗的传承。
文化交流
西安时装深植汉唐文化。曲江新区的大唐不夜城开发「霓裳羽衣舞」为灵感的高级订制服务系列,宝相花纹和披帛剪裁融入当代设计。
秦始皇帝陵博物院与本地高校合作,透过人工智能复原秦代甲胄纹样,成为国潮品牌的设计数据库。前国营纺织厂改造成的半坡国际艺术区,老式织机转化为装置艺术,吸引前卫设计师进驻。
融合丝路元素系列
本系列重现唐代开元盛世时期女俑的艺术精髓。服饰采用襦裙组合,女性穿着短上衣配长裙,裙摆高至胸部,营造流畅轮廓。宽袖衫袖口宽大,传达优雅与高贵。披帛增添飘逸动感,低领设计反映当时开放社会风气。
系列采用真丝菱纹缎,质地柔软轻盈,突显女性身形和服饰华丽感。制作运用盛唐时期流行工艺夹缬技术,以两块刻有相同图案的花板夹住布料后染色,有时可产生两至三种颜色。夹缬以对称平衡见称,用作妇女披巾或衣裙外,还可用于装饰家具,日本正仓院亦藏有多件夹缬制作屏风。
服饰、纹样及配色均由西安工程大学汉服研究院团队制作,参考了陕西唐三彩艺术博物馆「唐三彩女俑」,再以艺术重现。
设计哲学
此次时装设计以唐三彩俑为蓝本,展示中国文化元素从「素材」,转化为「传统遗产有机组成部分」系统性路径。本系列融合唐代陶瓷艺术与服饰文化精髓,包含多个核心元素。
色彩体系融合了传统的五行五色理论(青、赤、黄、白、黑),配合季节和自然的对应关系。唐三彩釉色(主要为黄、绿、橙)转化为服饰配色:黄色象征高贵,绿色代表生机,白色体现素雅。强烈对比色彩展现了唐朝盛世,呼应唐三彩人物俑的飘逸。
装饰元素将唐三彩几何纹和花卉釉彩图案,转化为刺绣或印花,通过研究古籍和复原染料实验,重现失传的唐代夹缬工艺,结合传统元素与当代设计,展现汉服的中和之美,又为唐三彩艺术注入新生命。
Country: Xian, Shaanxi Province, China
University: Xi’an Polytechnic University (XPU)
Designers: Xi’an Polytechnic University (XPU), Design team of Hanfu Research Institute
国家:中国西安
大学: 西安工程大学汉服研究院
设计师: 西安工程大学汉服研究院设计团队
Historical Context
As the eastern starting point of the ancient Silk Road, Xi'an has served as a convergence point for Eastern and Western fashion since antiquity. i'an has long been a confluence of Eastern and Western fashion, dating back to antiquity. During the Tang Dynasty, Chang'an (now Xi'an) witnessed the juxtaposition of two distinct styles: the "Hu-style riding attire" characterized by close-fitting jackets, trousers, and boots, against the loose-fitting Han Chinese robes (hanfu). Meanwhile, Persian patterns merged with Han-Tang brocade, establishing a foundation for the city's inclusive aesthetic. This cultural exchange fostered an environment in which foreign craftsmanship and local traditions coexisted in perfect harmony. Today, remnants of this rich heritage can be found in Xi'an's silverware workshops, nestled within the historic Muslim Quarter, where artisans continue to blend Sogdian techniques with local folk customs. Similarly, tie-dye studios at Yongxingfang (永興坊) showcase the enduring legacy of these ancient influences, now expertly woven into the fabric of local traditions.
Silk Road's Influence on Xi'an
Xi'an's fashion identity is deeply rooted in Han-Tang Silk Road heritage. Now, in Xian the Qujiang(曲江) New District's The Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City has developed haute couture collections inspired by the "Rainbow Feather Garment Dance," integrating treasure flower patterns and draped fabric cuts into contemporary designs.
The Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum(秦始皇帝陵博物院) collaborates with local universities to restore Qin Dynasty armor patterns through AI, creating design repositories for national trend brands. The former state-owned textile factory, now transformed into Banpo International Art District, converts vintage looms into installation art, attracting avant-garde designers.
The Silk Road-Inspired Fashion Collection
This collection reimagines the artistic essence of female figurines from the prosperous Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, where women wore ruqun (upper garment and skirt combinations) characterized by short upper garments with long skirts reaching the chest. The garments feature flowing silhouettes, with wide-sleeved shirts boasting generous sleeve openings that convey elegance and nobility. Shoulder drapes add a touch of ethereal movement, while low necklines reflect the era's the social openness.
The collection employs genuine silk rhombus satin, prized for its soft, lightweight texture that accentuates feminine forms and enhances garment magnificence. The production process utilizes jiaxie (夾纈 resist-dyeing), a technique exceptionally popular during the prosperous Tang period. This method involves sandwiching fabric between two carved flower boards with identical patterns before dying, which can sometimes produce two or three colors. Jiaxie patterns are distinguished by their symmetrical and balanced beauty. While often associated with women'sscarves and skirts, Tang Dynasty jiaxie also decorated furniture, as exemplified by screens preserved in Japan's Shosoin.
The collection's patterns feature intricate persimmon calyx motifs and geometric designs. Inspired by artistic interpretations of Tang sancai female figurines from the Shaanxi Tang Sancai Art Museum, the costumes, patterns, and color schemes were carefully designed to evoke the essence of ancient China.
Design Philosophy
This Tang sancai figurine-inspired design project exemplifies a systematic approach to elevating Chinese cultural elements from mere materials to become integral parts of traditional heritage. The collection seamlessly integrates the essence of Tang Dynasty ceramic art with costume culture, achieving this synthesis through several core elements.
The color system seamlessly merges the traditional five-element five-color theory (featuring green, red, yellow, white, and black) with seasonal and natural correspondences. The Tang sancai glaze colors, predominantly characterized by vibrant hues of yellow, green, and orange, are skillfully translated into costume palettes that evoke specific meanings: yellow signifies nobility, green represents vitality, and white embodies simplicity. The strikingly contrasting color combinations not only showcase the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty but also align with traditional aesthetics, echoing the elegant postures of the figurines from which this design inspiration is drawn.
Decorative elements skillfully transform Tang sancai's characteristic geometric and floral glaze patterns into intricate costume embroidery or prints. Through meticulous research of ancient texts and dye restoration experiments, the design team recreated lost Tang Dynasty techniques like jiaxie, successfully marrying traditional techniques with modern creativity to manifest hanfu's harmonious beauty while infusing new vitality into Tang sancai art.