Honoring the Feminine Beauty of Vietnamese Women through Tradition and the Silk Road

通过传统与丝绸之路,礼赞越南女性的柔美之姿

历史背景

越南时装在历代封建王朝时期,服饰不仅体现社会地位,也反映精致的审美趣味。到阮朝时期,五身奥黛(áo dài ngũ thân)诞生,并逐渐成为越南女性的象征,外形端庄含蓄,却仍能凸显身体线条。
从 20 世纪初起,第一代设计师开始尝试改良奥黛,将现代布料与裁缝技术融入其中,同时仍保留民族神韵。
如今,越南时装行业不断创新,当代设计师开发手工材质、民间纹样与文化遗产,创作出既具当代性又保留越南民族特色的奥黛系列。

越中文化交流

在越南与中国的古代造型艺术中,云纹与水波纹都反映了深刻的审美思维及人与自然的情感联系,虽然表现方式与象征意义各不相同。

融入丝绸之路元素的系列

第一套设计 “顺化皇城(Hue Imperial Citadel)” 从联合国教科文组织世界遗产汲取灵感,重现宫廷建筑,并交织传统云纹与水波纹,此设计在当代语境中彰显民族身份。

第二套设计灵感来自 “Silk Road(丝绸之路)”,将传统云纹与水波纹巧妙转化为花朵形象,此细节体现越南人的心灵与创造精神,并结合骆驼商队穿越沙漠,以及中国船队征服海浪的画面,再现连接东西方的传奇贸易路线。所有元素呈现在蓝色丹宁丝绸面料之上,每一处纹样皆象征着融入全球与连接世界的渴望。

特别亮点

所有设计均呈现在越南奥黛之上,这一永恒不变的文化象征,既优雅又神圣。作品使用在丹宁丝绸上以漂白剂手绘的新技法,并结合手工刺绣与钉珠装饰

设计哲学

两件主要作品背后的核心理念,是民族文化遗产与国际融合之间的连结。若说设计 1 “顺化皇城” 旨在提醒人们关于越南的根源、身份与民族自豪感,那么设计 2 “Silk Road” 则强调开放、交流与跨越国界的创造精神。两者共同 affirm(强调)时装的作用不仅在于外在之美,更是一种传递越南人的记忆、知识与生活哲学的方式,让其在世界文化的洪流中延续。

Country: Viet Nam

University: University of Arts and Design

Designer: Nguyễn Trí Long – Designer, University Lecturer

国家:越南
大学:工业美术大学
设计师:阮致隆(Nguyễn Trí Long),设计师、大学讲师

Historical Context

During Vietnam's feudal dynasties, clothing not only expressed social status but also reflected a refined aesthetic taste.

It was during the Nguyễn Dynasty that the áo dài ngũ thân (five-panel traditional long dress) was introduced and gradually became a symbol of Vietnamese women, with its modest appearance still honoring the body's curves.

From the early 20th century, the first designers sought to modernize the áo dài, incorporating contemporary materials and sewing techniques while preserving the national soul.

Today, the Vietnamese fashion industry continues to innovate. Contemporary designers utilize handicraft materials, folk patterns, and cultural heritage to create áo dài collections that are both contemporary and rich in Vietnamese identity.

Vietnamese – Chinese Cultural Exchange

In the ancient figurative art of Vietnam and China, the cloud and wave motifs in Vietnamese – Chinese culture reflect a profound aesthetic mindset and the human affection for nature, despite variations in expression and symbolism.

The collection incorporates the Silk Road element:

 Design 1, "Hue Imperial Citadel," is inspired by the UNESCO World Heritage Site, recreating the imperial architecture intertwined with traditional cloud and wave motifs. This design affirms the national identity in a contemporary context.

Design 2, inspired by the “Silk Road,” is a subtle blend of traditional cloud and water wave motifs transformed into a flower image, a detail that embodies the soul and creative spirit of the Vietnamese people. This is combined with the image of camel caravans traversing the desert and Chinese fleets conquering the waves, recreating the legendary trade routes connecting East and West. All elements are expressed on a blue silk denim fabric, where each motif symbolizes the aspiration for global integration and connection.

Special Highlight: All elements are showcased on the Vietnamese Áo Dài—an immutable cultural symbol, simultaneously graceful and sacred. The designs utilize a new technique of hand-painting with fabric bleach on silk denim, combined with handcrafted bead embroidery.

Design Philosophy

The overarching philosophy behind the two main works is the connection between national cultural heritage and international integration. While Design 1, "Hue Imperial Citadel," recalls the roots, identity, and national pride of Vietnam. Design 2, "Silk Road," emphasizes the spirit of openness, trade, and cross-border creativity. Both designs affirm that the role of fashion is not merely superficial beauty but also a means of transmitting the memory, knowledge, and philosophy of life of the Vietnamese people in the global cultural flow.