Crouching Tigers, Hidden Dragon: Vietnam's Cultural Legacy Along the Silk Road

《卧虎藏龙》:越南在丝绸之路上的文化遗产

历史背景

越南是位于东南亚地区中心的国家,经历了数千年的历史,形成了丰富的文化特色,这些特色在造型语言、服饰和传统手工艺中有着深刻体现。越南的艺术文化极为丰富多样,从手工美术、传统服饰到信仰节庆,都涵盖其中,而民间艺术更是不可忽视。在民间艺术中,不能不提到各种民间画派,如东湖画、金黄画、荫村画…… 对我个人而言,我最喜爱的是杭中民间画,这是与杭中街相关的越南著名画派。杭中画是具有深厚视觉价值的遗产,记录了精神生活与民间美术。

越中文化交流

越南与中国是邻国,文化交流友好,而时尚也是这种文化交流的一个组成部分。在越南,杭中画是一个具有代表性的民间画派,我选择将其融入时尚设计中,具体为《五虎》画。中国也有驱邪镇恶的民间画,如《钟祠》,这也是我喜爱的画派。因此,我带来了两款设计参赛:第一款设计完全利用杭中民间画《五虎》;第二款设计则是将《五虎》和《钟祠》两幅画结合的作品。

丝绸之路元素特色系列

第一款代表性设计聚焦于祭祀画《五虎》。选择塔夫绸作为材质,结合细线和亮丝的立体刺绣技术,创造了新的表面结构,模拟虎毛与虎纹的视觉深度。设计包括一件立领大胆、袖子膨胀破结构的外套, 一款变形背心通过魔法纹样技法呈现多层次3D虎头, 以及刺绣点缀的裤子以突出服装造型。色彩以黑色、红色、黄色和白色为主,呼应五行哲理,象征人与宇宙的和谐。

第二款设计表现杭中画卷云纹的结合,象征越南民间信仰中护法神的神威。搭配中国文化中驱邪的《钟祠》画中传说驱邪神。这套设计通过精细的手工刺绣, 装饰钉珠等技法进行突出呈现。

设计理念

《五虎》形象象征力量、平衡与保护, 被重新演绎为自信、勇敢与强烈个性的象征。设计理念强调将民间艺术转化为现代生活中的生动元素, 同时赞美越南传统文化独特的美和可持续价值。

Country: Viet Nam

University: University of Arts and Design

Designers: Le Van An, Graduate student

国家:越南
大学:工业美术大学
设计师:黎文安, 研究生

Historical background

Vietnam is a country located in the center of Southeast Asia. Over thousands of years, Vietnam has formed a rich and vivid cultural identity, deeply reflected in its designs, costumes and traditional handicrafts.. Vietnamese culture and art are extremely diverse, ranging from traditional handicrafts, costumes to religious festivals, and it would also be impossible not to mention folk art. In folk art, it is crucial that we talk about different art genres such as Dong Ho paintings , Kim Hoang paintings, or paintings from Sinh village... Personally, my utmost favourite is Hang Trong folk art, which is a famous Vietnamese painting style associated with Hang Trong street. Hang Trong paintings are undeniably a meaningful visual heritage that showcases and honors the Vietnamese spiritual life.

Vietnam - China Cultural Exchange

Vietnam and China are two neighboring countries, with a profound history of cultural exchange, fashion is without doubt also a factor. In Vietnam, Hang Trong painting style is the folk art that I chose to incorporate into fashion, more specifically the "Ngu Ho" painting. China has a genre of folk art that depicts the act of warding off evil spirits and exorcising ghosts - the "Chung Quy" painting, which is also a style I love. From that point of view, to the competition I submit too different designs. The first one completely references the folk art values of “Ngu Ho”. The second one is a sophisticating yet harmonious combination of the two “Ngu Ho” and “Chung Quy”..

The featured collection has the element of the Silk Road

 The featured design directs focus onto the “Ngu Ho” painting, by using techniques such as woodcutting, and hand-coloring, which are then both transformed and adapted into fashion design. I chose Taffefta silk combined with embossed embroidery, along with thin and shiny threads that create a whole new surface texture, simulating a tiger's fur and stripes. The designs include a jacket with bold standing collar and deconstructed puff sleeves, a stylized contemporary bib that depicts a tiger’s head using magical pattern techniques that creates a multi-layered 3D effect, and lastly trousers with selective embroidery shapes in order to highlight the form. The black, red, yellow, and white color palette echoes the philosophy of the Five Elements, as well as symbolizes the harmony between humans and the universe.

The second design shows a combination of the distinctive swirling cloud motif in Hang Trong paintings, reflecting the protecting power of heaven and earth according to Vietnamese folk beliefs. Along with "Chung Quy", a painting that depicts the legendary god of excorcism in Chinese culture, this design is highlighted through the elegant hand embroidery techniques, appliqués and decorations.

Design Philosophy

“Ngu Ho”, or “The Five Tigers”, represents strength, balance, and protection. I reinterpreted those qualities as a symbol of confidence, courage, and strong individuality. The underlying philosophy is that I want to celebrate the transformation of folk art growing into a essentially vibrant part of our modern life, while still respect the unique beauty and enduring values of traditional Vietnamese culture.