Threads of Heritage: Miao Embroidery as a Bridge Between Chinese and Thai Traditions

苗绣之美:中泰纺织传承

历史背景

玛哈沙拉堪府(Maha Sarakham Province)位于泰国东北部「伊善」(Isan 或 Esan)地区,融合多元文化,生活规律围绕全年「十二月习俗」(Heet Sib Song),代代相传。

玛哈沙拉堪府传统之一是「火箭节」(Bun Bang Fai)或称为「祈雨节」; 表演者均戴上棕榈叶制的锥形帽子「Muak Kaab」或「Muak Krajome」; 作为祈雨的舞蹈服饰。 仪式展现了敬畏大自然,雨季对农业的至关重要。

玛哈沙拉堪以手工艺驰名,尤其是「玛蜜丝绸」(Mat Mee纫染丝绸)的编织,仍然保留古老图案,亦融入当代元素,以纯天然染色和原料制作。 这项纺织传统结合地区与丝路历史,促进了亚洲丝绸、技术和文化交流。

苗族刺绣、湘西苗绣与泰国艺术

本设计亦参考苗族(Hmong)的刺绣。 苗族起源于中国,族裔散布亦包括泰国在内的亚洲多国,反映古代贸易路线,源远流长的文化互动。

苗族刺绣技艺精湛,包括十字绣、立体刺绣和贴布绣(拼布)。 苗族刺绣图案最常见几何图形包括三角形、圆形和十字形,象征自然、信仰和苗族生活方式。 刺绣以细致和鲜艳见称,传统上用于民族服饰和仪式服装,不同苗族分支的技法亦各异。

中国刺绣传统,特别是湘西苗族刺绣,影响了泰国地区。 苗绣透过抽象图案和自然元素,强调文化认同,以至光影交错,心灵向往繁荣幸福,从文化交流丰富了中泰艺术传统。

时装系列与丝绸之路

本时装系列将丰富的文化元素,结合当代服装和装饰,呈现出独特风格,融合了苗族和中国刺绣,借鉴了中国的湘绣、苏绣、蜀绣和粤绣等流派,集各家大成。

本系列结合玛哈沙拉堪传统泰丝编织,加上中国刺绣和苗族针线工艺,表达丝绸之路的精神——历史的贸易路线既促进商品交易,又推动了艺术交流。 运用玛蜜丝绸、天然染料和传统刺绣,表现出古代交流的现世诠释。

设计哲学

设计概念名为「天降甘霖」(Blessings of Rain from the Sky),灵感源自伊善人的地方文化,特别是「十二月习俗」(Heet Sib Song)中的祈雨仪式(Bun Bang Fai),透过祈雨舞蹈(Fawn)求雨,表达人面对大自然的谦卑和敬畏,仪式在玛哈沙拉堪府的凯丹区(Kae Dam District)尤其盛行。

祈雨舞蹈服装以「Muak Krajome」或「Muak Kaab」锥形帽子头饰最具特色,均是表演者亲手缝制,以当地材料亮片、彩色纱线和珠饰刺绣而成,色彩缤纷,布料又充份展现当地纺织传统。

设计理念也复兴传统的民谣歌唱风格「Kaab Soeng」,薪火相传,延续传统。 保存和传承文化,反映丝路社群共同价值观——尊重传统之中,亦颂扬跨文化艺术。

Country: Thailand

University: Mahasarakham University / Faculty of Architecture, Urban Design & Creative Arts, MSU" "Faculty of Architecture, Urban Design and Creative Arts

Designers: Parichat Srisanam, Doctor and Teacher, Kanchaya Jantarungsee, Doctor and Techer, Saifon Jumpathong, Teacher

国家:泰国

大学:玛哈沙拉堪大学/建筑、城市设计与创意艺术学院,MSU“ ”建筑、城市设计与创意艺术学院

设计师: Parichat Srisanam, Dji博士兼教师, Kanchaya Jantarungsee, 博士兼教师, Saifon Jumpathong 教师

Historical Context

Maha Sarakham Province lies in Northeast Thailand's Isan region, where diverse cultures mix.  The traditional way of life in this region follows the "Heet Sib Song" (Twelve Isan Traditions) throughout the twelve months of the year, reflecting deep-rooted customs passed down through generations.

Among these traditions is the Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival), or Rain-Begging Ceremony, during which performers wear the distinctive "Muak Kaab" or "Muak Krajome"—a cone-shaped hat made from palm leaf—as part of their costume for the rain-calling dance. This ceremony demonstrates the community's reverence for nature and the vital role of seasonal rainfall in agricultural life.

Maha Sarakham is renowned for its handicrafts, particularly the weaving of exquisite Mat Mee (Ikat) silk. The designs showcase beautiful patterns that continue both ancient motifs and contemporary adapted designs. The province preserves the traditional wisdom of natural dyeing, using raw materials from nature to produce beautiful and cherished textile products. This textile tradition connects the region to the broader narrative of the historical Silk Road, which facilitated the exchange of silk, techniques, and cultural practices across Asia.

Hmong Needlework,  Miao embroidery and Thai Artistic Tradition

The design concept draws inspiration from the embroidery art of the Hmong ethnic group, a community with roots in China that is also present throughout many Asian countries, including Thailand. This cross-cultural presence exemplifies the enduring legacy of exchange along ancient trade routes.

The Hmong are renowned for their needlework techniques, including cross-stitching, raised embroidery, and appliqué (patchwork). Hmong embroidery motifs frequently feature geometric shapes—such as triangles, circles, and cross-shapes—as well as symbols representing nature, belief, and the Hmong way of life. Known for its intricate detail and vibrant colors, this stitching is traditionally incorporated into tribal costumes and garments for important ceremonies, with various embroidery methods unique to specific Hmong subgroups.

Chinese embroidery traditions, particularly those from western Hunan Province practiced by the Miao ethnic group, have also influenced the region. Miao embroidery emphasizes cultural identity through abstract patterns and nature-inspired motifs, expressing concepts of light and shadow. These works convey aspirations for prosperity and well-being, demonstrating how cultural exchange has enriched the artistic traditions of both regions.

The Featured Collection and the Silk Road

The fashion collection integrates these rich cultural elements with contemporary garment decoration techniques to create a unique and distinctive presentation. The collection incorporates both Hmong and Chinese embroidery traditions, drawing from renowned regional schools such as those of Hunan, Suzhou, Sichuan, and Guangdong.

By combining traditional Thai silk weaving from Maha Sarakham with Chinese embroidery techniques and Hmong needlework, the collection embodies the spirit of the Silk Road—a historical network of trade routes that facilitated not only the exchange of goods but also the sharing of artistic techniques. The use of Mat Mee silk, natural dyes, and traditional embroidery methods represents a contemporary interpretation of these ancient exchanges.

Design Philosophy

The design concept, titled "Blessings of Rain from the Sky," draws inspiration from the local culture and traditions of the Isan people, specifically the twelve-month custom known as "Heet Sib Song." The focus centers on the Rain-Begging Ceremony (Bun Bang Fai), a ritual performed to ensure seasonal rainfall through a rain-calling dance (Fawn) that expresses humility and reverence for nature, as observed in Kae Dam District, Maha Sarakham Province.

The most distinctive feature of this rain-calling dance is the ceremonial headpiece known as the "Muak Krajome" or "Muak Kaab"—a cone-shaped hood. These hats are self-made, sewn, and decorated by performers for the ritual. They are characterized by vibrant colors and are embroidered with various patterns using locally sourced materials, such as sequins, colorful yarn, and beaded embellishments. The overall costume incorporates local fabrics, celebrating the textile heritage of the region.

The design philosophy also highlights the revival of the traditional folk singing style called "Kaab Soeng," which is being taught to younger generations to ensure the continuity of this important cultural tradition. This commitment to preserving and transmitting cultural knowledge reflects the enduring values that once connected diverse communities along the Silk Road—values of respect for tradition and the celebration of artistic excellence across cultures.