Malaysia:Batik, Pua Kumbu, and the Belt & Road Vision
马来西亚:峇迪布和普亚库布的丝路印记
历史背景
马来西亚位处海上丝绸之路的要冲。 数百年来,作为东亚、东南亚与中东地区的贸易枢纽,马来西亚通过交流,吸收不同文化,塑造出独特纺织传统和艺术风格。 从印度的印花、中东的花卉、中国的象征符号,兼收并蓄在马来西亚的布料,尤其峇迪布( Batik)的设计上,跨文化正反映古丝路精神——商贸往还带动货物流通,促进了思想、技术和艺术交融。 从马来西亚的纺织品演变,可见邻近文化互动,文化传承如何迸发异彩。
文化交流
数百年的贸易与移民潮,马来西亚深受中华文化影响。 中国丝绸、刺绣、以至凤凰、牡丹、莲花等图案,融入当地设计,变成峇迪布料的图案,马来峇迪与中式刺绣再演变成娘惹可芭雅(Nyonya Kebaya)等混合服饰。 伊班族普亚库布(Iban Pua Kumbu)的红色与中国文化代表吉祥喜庆的红色,象征语言亦不谋而合,峇迪吸收象征繁荣长寿的中式图案。 文化传统展示共通视觉语言,相得益彰又各有千秋。 中华文化贡献马来西亚纺织传统,体现了「一带一路」愿景——多元文化促进团结与共同繁荣。
融入丝路系列作品
这个系列以「遐想」(Reverie)为主题——以超越现实、探索全新的梦幻状态。 系列包括两个设计:一套结合峇迪与伊班元素,供女性社交场合穿着的「锢笼装」(Baju Kurung),以及名为「福装」(The Fortune Dress)的特色礼服。 锢笼装保留马来的端庄传统,融合不同文化布料图案。 红色峇迪底布配上金色花卉印花,搭配普亚库布风格腰带和披肩(Selendang),注入伊班族祖传象征。 领口镶上细致珠饰,展现巧手工艺; 可拆卸装饰配搭灵活。 「福装」则以单肩剪裁,配上飘逸披风展现戏剧感; 融入金币、锦鲤和龙等立体图案。 礼服以中国丝绸锦绮,结合棉质峇迪和真丝欧根纱(Organza),转化服装为视觉故事。 两个设计以峇迪布与伊班普亚库布作为文化象征; 呼应「一带一路」连接传统,延续海上丝路数百年文化交流。
设计理念
设计理念强调传统与创新的和谐,此系列时装既尊重文化遗产、符合当代美学。 锢笼装设计以峇迪为视觉焦点,伊班的稳重力量,营造了端庄、尊重传统而又富当代感的服饰。 棉丝峇迪和细心剪裁的细节,平衡了舒适与精致。 相比之下,「福装」则更戏剧性、具叙事和混合的美学,浮凸质感营造了服装立体图案。 中国丝绸锦绮、棉质峇迪和真丝欧根纱的层叠运用,奢华与朴实、奇幻与具体交织。 两个造型都深藏象征意义:峇迪图案体现端庄优雅、普亚库布图案则象征前人的勇气、中式符号代表繁荣与庇廕。 纺织品通过装饰布料的文化象征,呼应「一带一路」愿景,以地方传统为全球交流作出贡献,又保持各自精采。
Country: Malaysia
University: Tunku Abdul Rahman University of Management and Technology (TAR UMT)
Designers: Keertana Devi A/P Nagaraja, Fashion Design Student, Deepa A/P Ramarao, Fashion Design Student
國家:馬來西亞
大學:拉曼理工大学
設計師:Keertana Devi A/P Nagaraja 時裝設計專業學生, Deepa A/P Ramarao, 時裝設計專業學生
Historical Context
Malaysia's position along the maritime Silk Road established it as a critical trading hub connecting East and Southeast Asia with the Middle East and beyond. Through centuries of exchange, the region absorbed diverse cultural influences that shaped its textile traditions and artistic practices. Indian block printing techniques, Middle Eastern floral patterns, and Chinese symbolic motifs enriched the visual vocabulary of Malaysian fabrics, particularly batik. This cross-cultural dialogue reflects the spirit of connectivity that the ancient Silk Road represented, where commerce facilitated not only the movement of goods but also the exchange of ideas, techniques, and artistic expressions. The evolution of Malaysian textiles demonstrates how heritage adapts and thrives through continuous interaction with neighboring cultures.
Malaysia-China Cultural Exchange
Chinese culture has profoundly influenced Malaysian heritage through centuries of trade and settlement. Chinese silk, embroidery techniques, and symbolic motifs such as the phoenix, peony, and lotus entered local design practices, inspiring batik patterns and enriching hybrid garments like the Nyonya Kebaya, which fuses Malay batik with Chinese embroidery. The symbolic language also shows convergence: the red color central to Iban Pua Kumbu aligns with Chinese associations of fortune and joy, while batik incorporated Chinese-inspired motifs representing prosperity and longevity. These shared visual languages demonstrate how distinct cultural traditions can enrich one another while maintaining their individual identities. The Chinese contribution to Malaysian textile heritage exemplifies the Belt & Road Initiative's vision of celebrating diversity as a foundation for unity and mutual enrichment.
Featured Collection with Silk Road Elements
The collection is inspired by the theme "Reverie," a dreamlike state where imagination transcends reality to explore new creative expressions. Two main designs anchor the collection: a Baju Kurung in Batik × Iban fusion and a statement gown titled "The Fortune Dress." The Baju Kurung maintains the modest silhouette of Malay dress while blending textiles and motifs from different cultures. A red batik base with golden floral prints is complemented by a Pua Kumbu–inspired sash and selendang, injecting Iban identity and ancestral meaning. Subtle beadwork around the neckline reflects artisanal craftsmanship, while detachable trims offer adaptability. "The Fortune Dress" embraces theatricality through a one-shoulder silhouette with flowing cape, integrating three-dimensional motifs such as a lucky coin, koi fish, and dragon. Built on Chinese silk brocade and incorporating cotton batik and silk organza, the gown transforms clothing into visual narrative. Both designs showcase how Batik and Iban Pua Kumbu serve as cultural symbols aligning with the Belt & Road Initiative's mission of connecting traditions across regions, reflecting centuries of exchange along the maritime Silk Road.
Design Philosophy
The design philosophy emphasizes harmony between tradition and innovation, creating fashion that honors heritage while engaging contemporary aesthetics. The Baju Kurung design maintains batik as the visual highlight while Iban elements provide grounding strength, resulting in an ensemble that feels modest, respectful, and contemporary. The approach balances comfort with sophistication through the use of cotton-silk batik and thoughtful construction details. In contrast, "The Fortune Dress" embraces drama, storytelling, and hybridity, using raised textures to create three-dimensional motifs that emerge from the garment itself. The layering of Chinese silk brocade, cotton batik, and silk organza creates a dialogue between luxury and accessibility, fantasy and cultural authenticity. Across both looks, symbolic meaning is deeply embedded: batik motifs embody modesty and elegance, Pua Kumbu patterns signify ancestral courage, and Chinese symbols represent prosperity and protection. The philosophy transforms textiles from decorative fabrics into cultural symbols that mirror the Belt & Road vision, where local heritage contributes to broader global exchange while traditions enrich each other and preserve their distinct voices.