Where East Meets West—A Cultural Melting Pot on the Maritime Silk Road
东西交汇,丝路传韵——澳门的文化熔炉
历史背景
澳门作为中国特别行政区,拥有超过四百年中西文化交流历史。 长期以来一直是东西方传统——从贸易、宗教到艺术和时装——交汇互动的熔炉。 只要理解澳门融合开放与创意的独特之处,就不难明白本系列作品理念。 历史上,澳门作为海上丝绸之路枢纽,长期都是东西方文化的桥梁,充满活力的交流,至今仍塑造澳门的身份。
文化交流
澳门处于文化交汇点,传承中葡影响。 中国思想,特别是阴阳概念,又提供了解读澳门背景的框架,不令人感到冲突,而是动态的平衡。 这一原则下,体现设计上就是透薄柔软的欧根纱(Organza)代表的阴,与雄浑金色刺绣代表的阳,两者互动,反映文化共存和谐。
中国的象征意义,设计上可表达个人叙事——正如莲花象征出于污泥而不染,标志澳门的坚韧历程,设计注入既属于中国,又反映澳门本土的多层意义。
融合丝路元素系列
本系列见证了高级订制时装工艺的超凡力量,透过丝绸、欧根纱和蕾丝的精致对话重新演绎裙褂。 「未来传承」(Future Heritage) 理念是过去不是被复制,而是透过工艺重生,从传统裙褂汲取灵感,解构标志性形式为流动当代轮廓。
本系列以丝绸、欧根纱和蕾丝为材料——丝绸是基本材料,欧根纱经精心手工褶皱,以建立体积结构,精致的蕾丝则引入叙事和质感。 灵魂在手工的刺绣,大师级工艺的金银盘金绣(Gold and Silver Couching)、珍珠米珠钉珠(Seed Pearl Beading)和丝线刺绣技法,以织物描绘新故事。 抽象流动刺绣演绎龙凤,层层叠叠地流泻。
设计概念作为文化软实力的精密工具,直接支持「一带一路」倡议中核心的「民心相通」。 中国盘金绣与法国钩针珠绣(Tambour Beading)的融合,具体体现了定义澳门的跨文化交流,创造了微观层面的「文化丝绸之路」,展示相互学习与共创,呼应「一带一路」的精神。
设计理念
展出作品是一种刻意的文化策展行为,深深植根于特定中国传统,同时反映澳门独特精神。 它立足于仪式图腾——龙凤代表宇宙力量的完美平衡。 系列有意进化植物象征,从牡丹转向百合和莲花,象征纯洁、正直和从逆境中超脱的觉悟,反映与澳门商业活力和深厚传统交融相呼应的现代价值。
本作品颂扬粤绣这项非物质文化遗产,特别珠三角的《盘金》技法,代表与地区工艺历史的联系。 坚持以手工制作——每一针、每一褶、每一片贴饰都靠人的决定——提升时装超越成为可穿戴艺术品,自动化量产时代提倡精雕细琢、力臻华丽和细味文化的源远流长。
Country: China/ Macao
Organization: Yukwa
Designers: Li Ying Wen, Founder
国家:中国/澳门
组织:誉褂
设计师:Li Ying Wen, 创办人
Historical Context
As China's Special Administrative Region, Macao has been a cultural melting pot for over 400 years, with Sino-Western influences converging and interacting in a rich tapestry of tradition and innovation. This unique environment of open dialogue and creative fusion provides the ideal backdrop for understanding the essence and philosophy behind this collection. As the historic hub of the Maritime Silk Road, Macao has long played a pivotal role as a cultural bridge between East and West, fostering a dynamic exchange that continues to shape its identity today.
Cultural Exchange
Living at a cultural crossroads, Macao's heritage is inherently a Sino-Portuguese tapestry. Chinese thought, particularly the concept of Yin and Yang, provides the framework to understand Macao's background not as a clash, but as a dynamic balance. This principle directly guides design work, manifesting as the interplay between the sheer softness of organza (Yin) and the strong, metallic presence of gold embroidery (Yang), ensuring harmony that mirrors the cultural coexistence experienced in the region.
Chinese symbolism allows for the articulation of personal narratives—the lotus, representing purity rising from mud, has become an emblem for Macao's own resilient journey, encoding designs with layered meaning that is both authentically Chinese and deeply Macanese.
Design Concept:
This collection is a testament to the transcendent power of haute couture craftsmanship, reimagining the qungua through an exquisite dialogue of silk, organza, and lace. The philosophy is Future Heritage, where the past is not replicated but reborn through artisanal innovation, drawing from the archival architecture of traditional qungua and deconstructing its iconic forms into fluid, contemporary silhouettes.
The collection is founded on silk, organza, and lace—silk serving as the foundational canvas, organza meticulously hand-pleated to build volume and structure, and intricate lace introducing narrative and texture. The soul lies in hand-executed embroidery, where master artisans employ techniques like gold and silver couching, seed pearl beading, and silken threadwork to trace new stories onto fabrics. Dragons and phoenixes are rendered as abstract, flowing embroideries that cascade across layers.
The design concept serves as a sophisticated instrument of cultural soft power, directly supporting the "people-to-people bonds" central to the Belt and Road Initiative. The fusion of Chinese gold-pinning with French tambour beading physically embodies the cross-cultural exchange that defines Macao, creating a micro-scale "Cultural Silk Road" that demonstrates mutual learning and co-creation, mirroring the BRI's ethos.
Design Philosophy
The showcased work is a deliberate act of cultural curation, deeply rooted in specific Chinese traditions while reflecting the unique spirit of Macao. It anchors itself in ceremonial iconography—the dragon and phoenix representing the perfect balance of cosmic forces. The collection intentionally evolves botanical symbolism, moving from the peony towards the lily and lotus, symbolizing purity, integrity, and enlightened emergence from adversity, reflecting modern values that resonate with Macao's blend of commercial dynamism and deep-rooted traditions.
The work celebrates the intangible cultural heritage of Cantonese embroidery, specifically its "gold-pinning" technique from the Pearl River Delta, representing a tangible link to regional artisanal history. This unwavering commitment to the handmade—where every stitch, pleat, and appliqué is executed with human intention—elevates the collection beyond fashion into wearable artifacts, championing slowness, luxury, and profound cultural continuity in an age of automation.