Korea: Red Silk Breaking the Cocoon – Tales of Silken Sorrow

红丝破茧─丝路上的怨女传

历史背景

韩国拥有深厚的时装文化,源于韩服的象征意义与工艺。韩服向来以飘逸轮廓、鲜艳色彩和多种寓意图案,体现和谐、端庄与自然。数百年来,透过频繁的文化交流,韩国与其他亚洲地区互动,与「一带一路」倡议不谋而合。韩国时装以充满活力的创意,享誉全球,传统美学、现代纺织、可持续发展及设计理念融为一体。

中韩文化交流

两种文化之中,红色都象征生命与吉祥,韩服与中式婚服层次轮廓和纺织工艺,不仅传达美感,承载社会价值观。中国元素与韩国设计美学的有机融合,后者强调结构、转化与叙事性。

韩国习俗传统婚服及女性礼服,经常出现红色和牡丹刺绣,透过人工智能辅助数码印花技术(DTP)的重新演绎,融合传统象征与数码创新,展示科技延伸和转化当代时装传统美学。

时装系列与丝绸之路

作品在韩国留学中国设计师创作,结合设计师的传统文化与韩国创新现代的当代文化。本系列以中国的文化符号——红色丝绸、囍字纹和编绳工艺,再融入当代韩国设计实验美学与结构。

透过女性主义角度,设计重新诠释中国封建时代符号,压迫的象征变为自主与自由,并融入韩国的现代创新精神。本系列讨论全球关注的女性权益、多元和包容议题,传递当代普世价值讯息,以产生共鸣。

设计理念

本系列作品「红丝破茧」灵感,源自2021年中国发行的恐怖解谜游戏《纸嫁衣》,游戏批判封建「冥婚」文化压迫传统。红色新娘礼服以中国文化符号作设计基础,中国非物质文化遗产——传统绳编工艺与囍字纹等象征,揭示婚礼表面的喜庆与女性被物化的隐痛,两者之间的矛盾。

材料选择反映沉重与二元性:血红色珠子象征着前人眼泪,沉重下坠感令人联想到新娘陪嫁的裹尸布习俗。每针每线显现出抵抗,以服装诉说女性重夺身体主权。指导设计理念是女性解放——象征束缚符号转化为力量,时装化沉默为声音。

Country: Korea

University: Hanyang University

Designers: Feng Yanong, Master’s student

国家:韩国

大学:汉阳大学

设计师:冯雅浓, 硕士研究生

Historical Context

Korea has a rich cultural heritage in fashion, rooted in the symbolism and craftsmanship of hanbok, the nation's traditional attire. Characterized by flowing silhouettes, vibrant colors, and symbolic motifs, the hanbok embodies ideals of harmony, modesty, and natural beauty. Over centuries, Korea has both influenced and been influenced by the cultures of other regions across Asia through active exchange. This closely aligns with the spirit of the Belt and Road Initiative. In contemporary times, Korean fashion is globally recognized for its dynamic creativity, merging traditional aesthetics with modern innovation in textiles, sustainability, and design concepts.

Cultural Exchange

In both cultures, red symbolizes vitality and auspiciousness, while the layered silhouettes and textile artistry found in hanbok and Chinese wedding garments convey not only beauty but also social values. Throughout the collection, Chinese motifs are organically fused with Korean design sensibilities that emphasize structure, transformation, and narrative.

In the Korean context, the red color and peony embroidery motifs—traditionally used in wedding garments and women's ceremonial attire—were digitally reinterpreted through AI-assisted DTP (Digital Textile Printing) technology. This fusion of heritage symbolism and digital innovation highlights how technology can extend and transform traditional aesthetics in contemporary fashion.

The Fashion Collection

This work is created by a Chinese designer studying in Korea, combining the traditional culture of the designer's homeland, China, with Korea's innovative and modern contemporary culture. Centered on Chinese cultural symbols such as red silk, the "Double Happiness" motif, and braiding crafts, the collection also embraces the experimental aesthetics and structural approaches of contemporary Korean design.

By reinterpreting Chinese feudal symbols through a feminist lens, the designs transform signs of oppression into emblems of agency and freedom, while integrating Korea's modern spirit of innovation. In doing so, the project resonates with global discourses on women's rights, diversity, and inclusivity, delivering a message that is both contemporary and universally relevant.

Design Philosophy

The collection "Red Silk Breaking the Cocoon" takes inspiration from Paper Bride, a 2021 Chinese folk horror puzzle game that critiques the oppressive traditions of feudal "marriage sacrifice" culture. The red bridal gown, a cultural symbol of China, serves as the foundation. By combining intangible cultural heritage crafts such as traditional braiding techniques (繩編工藝) with symbolic patterns like the "Double Happiness" motif (囍字紋), the designs expose the contradiction between the celebratory surface of weddings and the hidden pain of women's objectification.

Materials are chosen to reflect weight and duality: blood-red beads symbolize tears of past generations, while heavy draping recalls the bridal shroud. Every stitch emphasizes the story of resistance, transforming garments into narratives of women reclaiming agency. The philosophy guiding this design is liberation—turning symbols of bondage into emblems of power and transforming silence into voice through fashion.