Masi Bridal Wear: A Contemporary Fusion of Fijian Tradition and Asian Design

树皮嫁衣:亚洲灵感斐济风情

历史背景

斐济是太平洋的热带岛国,由超过332岛屿组成,110个有人长期居住。 1874年,斐济成为英国殖民地,1970年独立。今天斐济是多元文化国家,经济主要是旅游业、蔗糖和渔业,以自然美景和文化活力闻名。

传统斐济服饰女性穿腰布,男性穿草裙。未婚女性裙子较短,已婚则穿长裙。现代斐济民族服装苏鲁(sulu)类似裙子,男女均可穿着。 「苏鲁瓦卡托加」(Sulu vaka Toga)适合日常生活,正式场合可穿剪裁较讲究的「苏鲁瓦卡塔加」(Sulu vaka Taga)。女性正式场合通常穿着多层塔帕布(Tapa),配以棉质、丝绸或缎面上衣。传统服饰在斐济原住民仍然相当普遍,西方和印度的影响在城市日益明显。

 

文化交流

华人社群在斐济多元种族社会,人数不多,影响力却不容小觑。目前估计约7,500人,占斐济人口约百分之一。大部分说广东话,部分说上海话,许多人也会斐济语。

华人定居斐济历史,可追溯至1855年,华人Moy Ba Ling从澳洲抵达斐济,定居莱武卡(Levuka),后来返回中国,再带亲属回来定居,大概与淘金热有关。后来的移民集中檀香木和海参参易。据斐济华人协会的记载,农村首批商店均由华商开设。 80年代末至90年代初,约一千名华人在斐济定居,1990年代末又迎来新一波移民潮。许多近期移民在斐济村落,开设面包和食品店,为社区创造就业机会。

 

融合丝路元素系列

本作品灵感源自塔帕(Tapa),一种从桑树(Mulberry tree)树皮提取的传统布料,缝制成当代风格婚纱。斐济以塔帕制成的衣服名为「马西」(Masi),先从楮桑(Paper mulberry tree)树皮制成布料,可用于仪式用途,包括服饰、装饰墙面和毛毯,制作马西过程复杂,斐济妇女剥下树皮,浸泡后用木槌敲打成不同厚度布料。

设计包括新娘礼服和新郎服装,融合传统与当代元素。新娘礼服以塔帕布料制作,配有和服袖(Kimono sleeve)——反映出亚洲设计影响。新郎服装以棉质帕科(paco)布料制成的传统斐济苏鲁,配搭白色塔帕衬衫,衬衫上饰以椰子纤维(magimagi)作装饰。亚洲设计元素与传统斐济物料结合,展现斐济与中国的文化交流。

 

设计理念

系列展现斐济传统与当代设计融合。有别于传统婚礼的塔帕打褶,布料缝制成有结构服装,展示传统物料创新应用。设计融入斐济的本地配饰,包括编织椰子纤维和贝壳,整合至服装结构。

手法展示塔帕布料,如何通过缝制技术转化为服饰,超越传统的礼仪用途。演变反映广泛文化交流和适应。系列与「一带一路」倡议联系,让人认识文化在不同国家分享和重新诠释,促进中国与斐济文明互鉴和理解。

Country: South Pacific/ Fiji Island

University: Fiji National University

Designers: Miriama Namosimalua, Assistant Instructor

国家:南太平洋/斐济岛

大学:斐济国立大学

设计师:Miriama Namosimalua, 大学助理讲师

Historical Context

Fiji is a tropical island nation located in Oceania in the South Pacific Ocean, comprising an archipelago of more than 332 islands, 110 of which are permanently inhabited. The nation became a British colony in 1874 and gained independence in 1970. Today, Fiji is a multicultural nation with an economy driven by tourism, sugar, and fishing, known for its natural beauty and vibrant culture.

Traditional Fijian dress consisted of loin cloths for women and grass skirts for men, with skirts being short for single women and long for married women. Modern Fiji's national dress is the sulu, a skirt-like garment worn by both men and women. The 'Sulu vaka Toga' is worn for casual occasions, while the tailored 'Sulu vaka taga' is appropriate for formal events. Women typically wear multi-layered Tapa cloth on formal occasions, often with a blouse made of cotton, silk, or satin. While traditional dress remains prevalent in indigenous Fijian culture, Western and Indian fashion influences are increasingly evident in urban areas.

Fiji-China Cultural Exchange

The showcase work draws inspiration from Tapa, a traditional fabric obtained from the bark of the Mulberry tree, stitched into a contemporary bridal wear design. Masi, as it is known in Fiji, is made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree and serves various ceremonial purposes including dress, wall décor, and blankets. The creation of masi requires significant effort, with Fijian women stripping the bark, soaking it, and beating it into sheets of varying thickness.

 

The designs feature a bridal gown and bridegroom outfit that blend traditional and contemporary elements. The bridal dress is constructed from Tapa fabric, stitched together with a kimono sleeve—reflecting an Asian design influence. The bridegroom's outfit includes a traditional Fijian sulu made from cotton paco fabric paired with a white Tapa shirt adorned with coconut sinews (magimagi) as decorative motifs. This integration of Asian design elements with traditional Fijian materials demonstrates the cultural exchange between Fiji and China.

Design Philosophy

The collection represents a fusion of Fijian tradition with contemporary design approaches. Rather than the traditional method of pleating Tapa for wedding ceremonies, the fabric is stitched into structured garments, demonstrating innovative applications of traditional materials. The designs incorporate local accessories abundant in Fiji, including plaited coconut fibres and shells, integrated into the garments' construction.

The contemporary approach showcases how Tapa fabric can be transformed into apparel through stitching techniques, moving beyond its conventional ceremonial uses. This evolution reflects broader patterns of cultural exchange and adaptation. The collection's connection to the Belt and Road initiative brings awareness to how cultural treasures can be shared and reinterpreted across nations, fostering mutual appreciation and understanding between China and Fiji.